Travelog: In Bruges

Reflecting on a little night magik. Desiree Koh (c) 2008

GO to Bruges, Belgium where navigating each cobblestone is a trip in itself, so romantic that gliding on a canal and under a bridge is like slipping into the tunnel of love. Everyone comes in the summer, but stroll by and stay a while in autumn to fall under the spell of changing foliage set against Gothic cathedrals and mystical mists swirling over medieval market squares as the aroma of hot waffles and chocolates seduce.

SEE the beautiful Markt and its majestic Belfort, where after summiting 366 steps, on a clear day you can see forever (forever being the North Sea and the surrounding Belgian countryside). The Burg, just a few steps south, is prettier, if you believe that good things come in small packages. Wander and lose yourself in any of the little streets emanating from the Markt and find your stride in lace shops, chocolatiers or cafes. (Cafe -- that's bar to you from the New World.) Explore the 16th century Beguinhof, a UNESCO World Heritage site and home to Beguines, single women who live a life of chastity. The Sint Salvador Kathedraal has the second highest tower in Belgium but the Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk (Church of Our Lady) has the first and only Michelangelo work outside of Italy, the sacred Madonna and Child. Admire, appreciate, awe.

EAT at Den Dijver, where the flamboyant maitre d' fills your beer glass with a flourish -- optimism abounds, because it's never empty... and did we mention the excelleng beer pairing menu that evolves with the seasons? Cambrinus Bier Brasserie has 400 Belgian beers in its cellars and Flemish dishes robustly created with the best of the country's breweries. Noshing at one of the Markt's many brasseries -- try Huyze de Maene for cozy service -- is touristy, but with majestic monuments as setting, you can deal with it. And yes, pop into each chocolatier and sample, sample, sample... until your feathers are truffled.

DRINK ...we hope you do this sitting down, because it's going to take time. 't Brugs Beertje is a tiny tavern tucked among ivy on granite walls where each one of Belgium's 2,5000 brouwerijs are represented with the 450 or so types of Belgian brews in existence. Toast to Trappist monks who set the hops rolling at Cafe Vlissinghe, the town's oldest cafe, opened in 1515. Discover how it's done at De Halve Maan, the only brewery still operating in town then settle down for a free tipple of the house pour. De Garre is hardest to find, despite it's heart-of-town location -- you might just leave your heart (and liver) there after sampling the home-brewed Trippel. They don't allow more than three servings per patron, if you want an idea of how dangerous it is. So savor it while you can.

LIVE at Livia's Luxe Bed & Breakfast, a hop and a step from the Burg and the Markt and home of your most lovely and gracious hostess De Gryse. Breakfast in a warm and inviting nook as Livia serves eggs from her chickens done to your fancy; homemade jam from her garden's apricots, rhubarb and strawberries; homemade bread; fresh apple juice from her orchard -- wait, did we have you at the most important meal of your day? The art nouveau mansion was built in 1902 and has been personally remodeled by Livia, a former bridal dress designer and debonair extraordinaire. Choose from three suites, each styled in its own theme -- the top-floor Room With a View has an amazing morning sight of Bruges's skyline -- towers and turrets and tiled roofs -- through the skylight and its own loft.